I often read on forums that the most likely reasons that a horse does not want to be caught are because he doesn't want to work, doesn't want to be confined or doesn't want to leave his field mates. People are advised to bring their horse in for a feed and just to do nice things some of the time and this is pretty reasonable advice.
Whilst these reasons might all be true, I think the problem is often more immediate than that. I think it is to do with the actual process of catching, the nitty gritty of technique, a tiny little portion of that process, that puts the horse off. Something about the actions of the human or the headcollar itself trigger a prey response. It may come from something that has happened in the past, a sudden reminder of a particularly bad experience and the horse has gone.
Whether it is past or present the result is the same, a horse that you can't catch.
Horse have the usual five senses plus that sixth sense that we can call energy - their complete awareness of the emotion and intent of the things that surround them. Each of those sense is heightened in a horse that is wary of being caught and it is worth checking and addressing each one.
Take sight for example. Just the sight of a a person, or people in general, may activate a horse's prey response. The presence of a headcollar, or a rope. The way someone moves as they walk or as they use their hands (a declaration of their intent). Do they behave like a predator, ready to grab? What if they were inviting instead? Use submissive, 'I am not worthy', body language to acknowledge your horse's first offer to be caught - turn away with dropped shoulders the instant he even looks at you.
Smell can be very evocative bringing up past memories or just plain off putting in the moment. Too much perfume or after-shave or smelling like a farrier or a vet. Better to smell like a horse!
Most horses are alert to sounds and the jingle of the headcollar buckles. High pitched and loud voices will give away attitude and intention. A low, slow, calming tone stands a better chance of working.
When close up to the horse touch is especially important - heavy handed pats are a punishment not a reward and tentative tickly fingers feel just like electric fencing. A polite deep flat rub induces endorphins and makes the horse want to be with you. The touch of a headcollar can be electrifying too and I use fur and fabric to catch horses that have become phobic about the headcollar. Just changing the colour of the headcollar and the rope may help - changing the type may be even better. Jangly Duallys and thin Western halters can be offputting and cumbersome.
More important than all of these though is intent. The horse knows whether you are friend or foe. Why would a horse want to be caught by someone who is angry or frustrated? Or even just upset? Horses find strong emotions confrontational and will always avoid confrontation if they can. Approach you horse with love - always.
Taste can be your ally if food is used as wages rather than a bribe. Horse may learn to take the food and run if food is given liberally but clicking and treating, marking the behaviour that you want, can work extremely well.
Be careful who you allow to catch your horse. It doesn't take many negative experiences for a horse to feel the need to improve his avoidance strategies. Every person who comes into contact with him is a trainer. Address catching problems early - working with the horse's yeses and his maybes rather than practicing his 'no'.
A horse that has perfected his no is effectively semi-feral and at risk in just the same way if he cannot be caught easily in an emergency. Horses that are caught in an emergency are often caught using force and restraint that reinforces all of their fears and makes it even harder the next time.
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