19th June, 2014 To Hell and Back?

A picnic in Hell's Gate National Park underneath the remains of a leopard kill was a relaxing if sobering event. As with all of these remaining wild spaces the Kenyan Government has its eye on them for development – here for industry and at Sabuk for an enormous dam to provide for a new city at Isioli. The continual tension between the needs of people and the protection of nature always seems to make the animals pay and you can't help feeling that the earth is all going to hell in a hand cart. I certainly don't know what the answer is and whether I should even try when I live in a so-called developed country with a history of exploitation of people, land and animals. Why shouldn't people climb out of poverty making the most of their assets? The Chinese are ploughing money into Africa, providing basic infrastructure at the same time as smuggling out valuable rhino horn and paying people to poach tortoise for their supper. Chinese lorries and motorcycles are no longer a rare breed but looking down I note my walking trousers and my watch, and even the Duallys I use for my work, all come from China.

Debbie's husband, Craig, is a fantastic person to talk to about all of these issues. A white Kenyan, he is General Manager at Finlays Flower farm which provides millions of roses to companies such as M and S, Tescos and Waitrose. Incidentally he is also a friend to the stars having snuggled up to Joanna Lumley at the Chelsea Flower Show! He talks with a quiet authority and a great deal of sense and a disarming lack of defensiveness, seemingly only too aware of his great privilege to be living in such a beautiful country.The difference now, he says, is awareness but will awareness be enough to stem the tide of destruction?

Finlays, a major employer in Kenya, takes pride in all sorts of iniatives from recycling,  welfare of humans and even local donkeys. Donkeys are used extensively on the farms and the last tractors are due to be phased out very soon. The donkeys, mostly rescued,  work a maximum of four hours a day, and are never hit. Each donkeys pair has its own handler and they take great pride in their donkeys. Donkeys in Kenya generally can have a rough time and mutilation for identification or for medication is still rife. 

19th June, 2014 To Mara's Another Day

Three heavenly days at the Kicheche Valley Camp on the Naibosho Conservancy on the edge of the Mara National Reserve. Naibosho which means 'coming together' is the first community driven initiative aimed at balancing the needs of the wildlife and the local community. Cattle grazing (no sheep or goats) is carefully managed and used to enhance the quality of the land and the Maasai are involved in the management of the conservancy. We had met Val and Brendan at Fisherman's Camp the last time we were in Kenya and they are two of the warmest, most interesting people that we know.

http://kicheche.com/our-camps/valley-camp

19th June, 2014 The Da Vinci Code

Inevitably I ended up doing some bits and pieces with Debbie's ponies – not just because she is a wonderful host but also because it is good for my soul.

Somali pony, Da Vinci, was frightened of humans when he arrived at Debbie's was inclined to climb the walls of his stable and bolt out of the door. He cannot be caught from the field. Despite all of this he has been ridden and won things. He came to Debbie as a companion having been left to his own devices for a while because he had COPD. A change of environment seems to have resolved this and he has also calmed down a lot.

I started work using clickered treats to set up an association between the click and then worked with  one headcollar going on over another and then just a lead rein around his neck, stage by stage. Although he was on a lead rein no pressure was put on it, it was just there to ask him not to leave altogether because we were working in a large schooling area. Alfred and James, a neighbour's syce, watched intently as I worked and I took the opportunity to acknowledge the work that they do and the role that they play in setting up a relationship of trust. We talked about the importance of doing things with love. By the third session,  Da Vinci was walking a few strides to be caught and was engaging in the 'Piglet Catching Game' with Alfred and myself.

9th June, 2014 Gorge-ous George

Robert, Samburu warrier and team leader at Sabuk.

Next we popped mext door to Sabuk Lodge where we were going out for a three day camel safari. Here we could watch the elephant on the adjacent hill whilst sitting in the outdoor bath! The following day it was time to meet the camels....

My camel, Boy,  groaned a lot and huffed his cheeks when I got on board. Riding him, seated precariously on his single hump wasn't the most comfortable riding experience. I was hopeful of working out what made him tick, His long legs and soft feet ate up the ground but he struggled with inclines and uneven terrain. All the time he gazed around serenely following in the footsteps of the Samburu guide on the lightest lead. He only complained when asked to sit down or stand up when I needed to rest my weary mtako or my weary legs.  Otherwise it was hard to read his expression as his ears are always set back and his lower teeth often stick out.

After four hours travelling, we set up camp at a dry river bed and the camels were turned out in the bush to graze on the trees and to roll in the sand. Early the following morning I took the time to touch my camel, temporarily re-named George, to see what he liked and he didn't like compared to the horses. Just like them he seemed to prefer a deep, flat, slow touch and to have the muscles of his long neck massaged. He liked the bones on his face traced and the base of his ears rotated gently. He turned his head to look at me and I suddenly felt a real connection and that just like the horses he was simply a bag of emotions. He was only concerned with whether I was friend or foe. Verity, who is in charge of Sabuk, had reassured me that none of the camels are hit and certainly the guides were very kind to them, nevertheless George bears historical scars of rope burns on his face and has been hot branded.

This encounter with George was special enough but was followed later by one of the most fulfilling experiences. At the next camp on the 'beach' of a fast moving river, the camels were once again set free for the afternoon. Each one came down to the sand to roll and to take a drink before heading up the hill to graze, George followed suit but took a detour over to where I was sitting, peering candidly at me through the leaves of the overhanging tree, positively asking me to touch him again. Of course I obliged. Later I found him and removed three acacia thorns from his face.

Two things you may not know about camels:

Milking camels are very popular in Kenya. The baby camel takes one teat and the handler milks the other by hand.

Male camels, which are kept entire, pee down their back legs to keep them cool. They are anatomically set up to let this happen.

Having said a fond farewell to George, I just had time to admire Verity's three Somali ponies before we left. They are father, son and presumably the Holy Ghost!

19th June, 2014 Loisaba Wilderness

19th June, 2014 The Night of the Naughty Elephant

A keenly anticipated trip to Kenya to catch up with old friends, human and horsey, make some new ones, and to watch some heavenly wildlife. First stop was Monica's, deep in Manzoni, where she has horses of her own and liveries. Monica follows IH principles and in time hopes to become an RA but in the meantime she is used to bringing horses back from the brink, particularly in their ridden work. Ex-racehorses, Warmbloods and a Somali pony all grace her yard plus a two year old Irish Draft cross Somali pony called Xani who is living the life of Riley. We did some groundwork with her, Tatonka and Warren, Monica's eventing horse and had our first ride out in the bush.

Xani, first introduction to groundwork

Tatonka, a very splendid looking horse - one of Monica's horses in for training.

"Xani, the little two year old, has become an angel since you worked with her!!!  So I am keeping it up.   Tatonka's owner is very chuffed that you did him too." MC 15th June, 2014

After a couple of days it was off to see Debbie next to Naivasha lake and to meet her new horses, Thoroughbred Skuba, Arab Avalon and Somali pony Da Vince, so called because his scars looks like code. All appear to be absolutely thriving.

Skuba has now started eventing, prompting Debbie to replace her 1970's riding cap with a real one!

Skuba shows us why he has such a shiny coat

Avalon is starting to jump

Da Vinci has scars on his nose and back probably caused by rope or burns.

Following a five hour journey and one car crash we made it up to Loisaba Wilderness to be reunited with Adam and all the horses and ponies he looks after for Jo and Tom, the managers there. Five years ago there were a few waifs and strays, all coming from Ethiopia or from the race track but with a lot of care and an abundance of grass, thanks to the rains, the horses all look fantastic now. The stallion, Yamaha, (just a reminded not to let a man name your horse), has sired three decent foals which are just coming up for starting. There has been a real shortage of proper ponies in Africa and those imported from Ethiopia and Somalia are often quite traumatised as a result of the abuse they experience there. I am proud to have made a real difference to the way that un-handled horses are handled at Loisaba and to be told that as a result the ponies are much easier to train in the long term. However, I must not take away from the real skill and love that Adam has for the horses. He has a real feel for them which is missing in some of the mechanical handling of horses taught to grooms by rote.

Adam and just two of the horses

Riding out in the morning on Bold Deed, a horse I rode here five years ago. 

 I have high hopes for Monica's 'syce school' where she is eager to introduce a good dose of horse psychology onto the syllabus but it is the owners of the horses that need to be convinced that building up a relationship of trust with a horse does not start and finish with their own handling and training; the grooms need to be able to do it and do it with love – not an easy subject to broach in the rather un-level employer/ employee relationship sometimes found in Kenya. I can't delve into a political and class system that makes me rather uncomfortable – particularly when I don't live there, can't influence anything, and probably don't know what I am talking about. It is especially so when the other aspect of our holiday was reveling in the luxury of  Loisaba Cottage where every meal is gorgeous and our bedroom is not only open plan but open air with just a mosquito net between us and the sky. I had to balance enjoying food with a real need not to squash my horses when I got back.

Maasai, one of Yamaha's three sons

 Loisaba Wilderness is such a special place. Privately owned there is just one huge cottage with its own staff where you are waited on hand, foot and finger. When we came last time the rains had failed for four years in succession but this time everywhere was lush and green. As well as gazing at all the beautiful wild animals, I earthed myself every day by visiting Adam and the horses, riding out on Bold Deed and doing a little work. It's hard to decide whether my favourite African animal is the elephant, the giraffe or the Grevy's zebra with their 'Minnie Mouse' ears. In the end I think the Klipspringer wins. Perhaps the restless night we had when one elephant kept trying to break in to the grounds will influence my decision. Of course elephants are incapable of being naughty – he just wanted to eat the flowers and drain the swimming pool!

Bally, another of Yamaha's sons

25th May, 2014 Coming Up Roses

Like these two foals I am going to take time out to smell the flowers and to have a little rest. The blog will be back in three weeks time and I have appointments available from 21st June onwards.